Technically the flagship Peugeot looks very simple and conservative, which is not surprising. Radical biodesign, fashionable at the end of the 90s, hides the same platform of the second half of the 80s on which its forerunner 605 and Citroen XM are built. The platform, by the way, with not bad handling, which had not lost its relevance by the beginning of the new century.
The body is big, all-steel (though a hood is aluminium). Front-wheel drive only, the engines are located transversely. Suspension is McPherson at the front and advanced multilever at the rear. The suspension is only springs, no “hydropneumatic”, but there is a variant with adjustable shock absorbers.
Engines are gasoline and diesel in-line four and V6, about which more details below. Transmissions are mechanical or hydromechanical automatic transmission, 4 or 6 speeds.
September 1999. The model was presented to the public at the Frankfurt Motor Show. Motors are petrol EW12J4 2.2L 158 hp and ES9J4S 2.9L 207 hp, as well as diesel DW12ATED4 2.2L 133 hp. They can be equipped with either 5-speed “manual” or 4-speed automatic transmission. On the gasoline 2.2, diesel and 2.9 gasoline are ZF 4HP20.
April 22, 2002. A 500,000 mile speed record is set for the 607 HDi. This is important for this car, the new generation was presented as a very practical and reliable car.
March 2004. Slightly updated motor lineup: 158 hp 2.2 EW12J4 replaced more powerful EW12J4 with 163 hp, and 207 hp 2.9 ES9J4S was replaced by 211 hp ES9IA. In addition, the V6 versions got rid of the old German automatic with the Japanese Aisin TF-80SC 6-speed, and the 2.2 gasoline versions got a 6-speed manual.
November 2004. The restyling of the model is introduced. Little cosmetic changes, slightly revised braking system and electronics. New Diesel V6 2.7 liter 204 hp DT17TED4 series was presented. It was combined with the 6 speed automatic transmission.
September 2005. DW12ATED4 2.2 liter diesel engine was replaced by DW10BTED4 2.0 liter 136 hp engine.
May 2006. Turbo Diesel 2.2 liters version again appeared, this time the engine is DW12BTED4 with power of 170 hp, it is also combined only with 6-speed manual gearbox.
September 2010. Production is finished.
The good preservation of the cars is not only due to relatively good care, but also due to the extremely good quality of the paintwork and good anti-corrosion protection. Combined with the use of galvanized metal for almost all elements of the body.
As usual, galvanization is one-sided, but its layer is rather thick. Nevertheless, it is possible to find the corrosion: little spots on a windshield frame, little chips on doors, on back panel, rust on edges of arches … All these are insignificant trifles.
Something serious can be seen only at the junction of the bumper and the front fender. In St. Petersburg and Moscow cars there will almost certainly be perforation, and in the worst case – holes. A fender suffers mainly because of the attachment bracket on its inner surface, it is located closely to the outer surface, and a garbage collector is formed between them, and the lower fender sub-stamp collects a moisture. As a result, the fender is rotting out from the inside, and galvanizing does not help. The putty in this area is almost certainly a trace of cheap repair.
The situation with the thresholds is even worse: from outside it can be imperceptible, because they rot from inside, which is quite typical for many PSA models of the early 2000s. Inside the threshold it is humid, there is not enough anticorin, it is not airtight, but the ventilation is weak. As a result, the rotting processes in the threshold cavity are very intensive. From outside, it can be noticed mainly by peeling outer layer of paint – the zinc is oxidizing, and it flies off. If you see a coating of “antigravium” on sills, most likely it is bad.
The aluminum hood suffers a lot because of the presence of steel locking bracket, it literally comes out with flakes of aluminum corrosion around, but the edge and exterior surface hold up quite well.
The paint is peeling around the dents, but you don’t have to worry about rusting through. Chips around the door handles are also a typical problem: again, you can not fear the rot, but it looks so bad.
There is often corrosion under moldings and swollen bottom seam of the door, but it is almost invisible from outside, only when removing and disassembling. The trunk lid holds up surprisingly well, the most problematic place is the number “0” in the model index. The matter is that inside the “zero” there is a button to open the trunk. The stylish design after 20 years is often aroused by corrosion of the button and of the edge of its hole. The seams in the rear lamp niches can rust, but the problem rarely comes out.
Overall, for a 20-year-old car, the Peugeot 607 usually holds up well. Problems are only visible up close. Yes, and many cars were very well maintained in the early years, which means the cars were quality tinted when needed, sometimes anticorrected in time.
It is easy to guess, from what was said above, that the inspection from below will upset, first of all, with a condition of thresholds. Holes and even missing pieces of sill reinforcement or floor in area of underrides are usual. If mats stick out or assembly foam is seen, the car is strongly neglected. It’s not that it’s very expensive to repair, but the left sill has a thick wiring harness, it’s bound to get wet, with corresponding consequences for the electrics.
The sills themselves are available on the aftermarket, but it’s not so easy to buy a factory booster, and often the piece of the underbody adjacent to the sill is damaged. In general, in case of damage there is a lot of welding, weakening of construction and big expenses. If the car is not in a rare configuration and the price is not extremely attractive, it is better to pass by the “rotten”.
The arches are rotten mostly along the outer edge. There is almost always a small spot of corrosion in the rear of the front arch because of the mud pocket behind the locker, and the area near the shock absorber support shows signs of surface corrosion due to damage from suspension repairs and stress in this area. In the rear arch, the shock absorber support point is also at risk.
On the bottom of the car itself, the floors at the front end, in the area of contact with the ill-fated sill reinforcement, are mostly affected. A lot of surface corrosion is around gas tank’s niche, over the rear suspension and in the rear overhang, but the through corrosion occurs mainly along trunk floor spars, and that mostly at cars of first years of production. So far, such damages are not a serious danger to the structure, and if you want they can be preserved.
You should also pay attention to the front subframe. This part is not very expensive, for 60-100 dollars you can still buy used in perfect condition, but on many cars it is already very loose and has through holes. The latches and overlays on it clearly indicate that it would be better to replace it. The car is heavy, and the arm mounts and even the mounts of the subframe itself can tear out.
In general, the exterior condition of the 607 body is better than many of its peers. But sill problems are very common, and when everything is decently neglected, a body repair doesn’t make financial sense – the market price isn’t that high. In general, the inspection should be done most thoroughly.
As already mentioned, structurally the 607 is very simple, which is expressed including the minimum number of different elements in the design of bumpers, overlays and other things. But there is a lot of chrome, and it suffers a lot. The coating film on decorative details gets peeling after 5-8 years of exploitation, gets yellowed and covered with rusty dots. Especially the radiator grille elements suffer.
Headlights are big, with a weak housing and are not particularly durable. The exterior is mottled, the interior is burned out. Polishing and armor film play an important role in the life of a 607 owner.
The bumpers are again large, not very strong in the cold season. And the traditional trouble of all PSA cars – the dusters under the bumper fly off. The fasteners are weak, the overhang is long, the ground clearance is small. They have not many chances. In general, the price isn’t much either, three items, with codes 7013H4, 7013H5 and 7013H6, will come out to $20 together. And without them, there will be more noise than usual, and the bumper shell will bend more, breaking the mounts of the grilles and fog lights.
Mechanisms of mirrors get stuck in northern climate regularly, so that torn actuators of folding are not uncommon. Door stops after 5 years of operation begin to click and stick, lubrication does not always help. Trunk lid gas stops are a source of neck injuries, the lid is heavy, and the stops are often torn off in winter. Latch catches usually seize up tight, the good thing about most cars has as much as two accumulators, and the central locking mechanism fails seldom at all.
With all controversial appearance of the car it is impossible to tell something bad about the interior design. If certainly you are not confused by abundance of pseudo-wooden overlays: real wood here is only the lining of a steering wheel and automatic transmission, the rest is painted plastic. But tender leather of seats, soft plastic of panels, vinyl soft inserts in contact zones, pleasant structure of surface of buttons and levers and the general design will hardly leave you disappointed. Especially in the variant “wooden steering wheel, black top and beige bottom”. Besides it is spacious, very silent and comfortable. Ergonomics is a bit specific, but bearable.
Peugeot did not make a mistake with the quality of materials, at 300+ miles the interior can look fresh. The poorest cars are expected to look the worst – the materials are worse to clean and less durable. Thus, the plastic steering wheel, unlike leather one, cannot be refinished, and fabric inserts in doors sag faster than leather ones.
There are a lot of typical breakages. Seat rail looseness is an almost ubiquitous problem, at 150+ miles it’s better to just replace them with new ones. All the used ones will be just as worn out.
The dashboard display in the heat starts to go dark, good thing for the VDO panel they are on one Chinese website for $20. And re-soldering is not very difficult, if you trim the mounts beforehand. The display of the central console also dies, but more often in cold weather – here re-soldering the loop helps. The color display lasts less than the black and yellow one.
The steering wheel stub at 200+ miles is standard, requiring repair, re-soldering the outermost coil, or replacement with a new one. Driver’s seat lumbar support is usually broken many years ago. Failure of the stereo control paddle switch: either the board needs to be soldered, or the contacts under the cap don’t work. The left paddle lever traditionally has a broken cable inside.
With the multimedia system, everything is also not simple. The original one is very old-fashioned and does not work reliably. It is almost unreal to install a modern 2DIN instead, and 1DIN is difficult – you will need to make an adapter frame for the design of the panel, with aqua-print. The good thing is that you can put a changer emulator or solder a line input.
A separate nuance with the climate system. Reliable enough heater fan, damper and radiator are combined with constant failures of the air conditioning system – both corrosion of pipes and compressor breakdowns.
Traditionally, for owners of PSA cars we have to remember the presence of BSM and BSI units, and here the latter is more of a problem. It is absolutely not protected from corrosion, and sometimes it gets flooded. Unlocked keys, malfunctioning power windows and electric mirrors, malfunctioning lights, etc. – are typical problems.
The units can vary in both years and packages – at a minimum, there’s Base and Lux. Replacement in general is not super complicated, with the right choice of block you can replace the memory chip, which can easily do any service, and you can do yourself if you have a hair dryer or a good soldering iron and minimal skills.
It is a pity that the blocks themselves are already quite expensive – prices start from 100 dollars, it is difficult to find for less. The BSM unit under the hood is still afraid of water, it has a limited relay life, and cold soldering can happen. Read more about all that in the materials about Peugeot 307, 308, and 407.
By the way, the key fobs on the 607 are prescribed only with the code on the board, only knowing the PIN of the BSI unit is not enough. Don’t forget to ask the last owner when buying the car, it makes it radically easier to solve many problems.
In addition to the standard BSM/BSI problems, there are your own, typical only for the 607. So, luxury cars are equipped with two batteries: main and auxiliary, and for their correct work is the interface and control unit, which is located under the hood next to a large 50A fuse, and it is his failure can easily finish off one of the batteries.
The control unit of gasoline engines 2.9 is easily flooded with oil – it comes from the phasor valve through the wire, slowly but surely. The oil corrodes the insulation and damages the boards, so you can’t just wash it off. Sensors of washer fluid level in a tank are very unfortunate, it is possible to put reed sensor from Citroen C5 of the second generation and forget about this problem.
Front headlight xenon.
Of course, all engines suffer from motor braids. And if there are not many problems with diesel engines (the fuel pressure regulator and oil pressure sensor connector usually dies), then the petrol engines have nozzles and throttle braids which are getting loose from high temperature and can even cause a fire. The radiator fans not only have a very low life of the motor itself, but also traditionally for PSA suffer from breakdowns of the two thermistor blocks, which can both burn out and suffer from soldering.
There are a lot of little surprises and peculiarities here, many owners will have to “learn” as they get to know the car. For example, a “trick” with a bulb of illumination of number “2” on a tachometer: it is not necessary to put it; its absence is normal, and if it is put, the sector on a tachometer will be illuminated unusually bright.
Or sensors of pressure in wheels: they are standard, but for some reason they do not warn that a wheel is half empty – they will signal only when it is already empty.
If the variant you are testing has not rotted from the inside, the rapids haven’t rotted, and no destructive processes have started in the underbody area, we can consider that half of the job is done choosing Peugeot 607. The main thing is not to relax, to make qualitative anticorrosion and spot-weld if necessary, because the rotting occurs here due to strictly constructive peculiarities, and that means that it is practically inevitable, if not to deal with the car. Electronics can ruin your nerves, but, unlike some Range Rover P38, solution of problems in this part is rather inexpensive – it will not ruin your money. In the next part we will consider the running gear, engines and boxes to make final conclusions.